Big Sur calls…

Exhausted after five hours of driving from Lake Tahoe luck was on my side with Spring Lake State Park Campground in Santa Rosa having an overflow site available. I arrived at 7PM and was on the road 12 hours later with a needed extra strong coffee in hand to assist with the day’s long southern travel ahead.

Store in BolinasPreferring to stay near the shore I connected with Route 1, the Coastal Highway, at Point Reyes Station and the Point Reyes National Seashore. Not surprising, fog was settled along the coast providing a thick backdrop to the small eclectic town of Bolinas and Muir Beach Overlook where WWII soldiers commanded bunkers in case of a Japanese attack. A short drive to Mill Valley was the most tightly winding and steep section of Rte. 1 navigated. Swerving downward into town I met new The Mighty Golden Gate Bridgefriends Nell and and friend for tasty fish tacos. We shared a conversation of experiences in the area, then the journey continued crossing the towering Golden Gate Bridge to the highly recommended Big Sur by a good friend. Looking eastward from the Golden Gate was Alcatraz. A landmark to visit on the next San Fran trip.

Had to...One hundred sixty miles and four hours later arriving at Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park CAMPGROUND FULL signs weighed heavily. Camping options were ticking in my mind when a park ranger informed me one of the overflow sites was available. Acquiring the site without reservation this time of season was like winning a small lottery. Good thing since all campgrounds further south were over capacity. With headlamp on, camp was set, dinner consumed and sleeping bag zipped for needed rest to tackle the next days coastal drive.

Camping next to a 1,000 year old friendAlthough a road warrior for the previous few days the breathtaking drive along the winding ocean-side Coastal Highway had to be made. Getting a good night’s rest kept me bright-eyed to stay on the sometimes unprotected road falling to the Pacific. Making the drive is also a personal choice of gaining knowledge of the landmarks and where to explore the next few days. Jealousy set in seeing motorcycles cruise the road. Was wishin’ I had my ride!

Sleeping, resting, playing Elephant SealsPiedras Blancas Elephant Seal Rookery down the coast offered a seaside trail to get the legs moving and escape the 100+ visitors maneuvering for position at the closest seal viewing area. The massive seals were lounging, mostly sleeping throughout the day with pups by their sides. Further down the trail were more rookeries where there was private viewing and a great sight of a U.S. Naval light house.

Small Church in San Simeon with Hearst Castle in the backgroundSan Simeon, originally inhabited by the Chumash Native Americans, was the furthest southern travel 65 miles from the start of the day. On the northern return to camp making a stop at Julia Pfeiffer state Park I found the best campsites that could be had on the coast. They weren’t occupied but reserved later learning no shows are a normal occurrence with people reserving the sites just to hold them. For the next day’s event the trail head for Tan Bark Trail was located for a good hiking effort to reduce the stiffness of a few days of driving.

Tan Bark Trail Head Tan Bark Trail heads east from Route 1 placing you in what feels to be an enchanted forest. Standing tall Redwoods surviving a 2008 fire, a quiet flowing stream and rich green undergrowth made the forest a comfortable place before being exposed to the sun and heat higher along the trail. Near the peak of the ridge sits a rusted evacuated Tin Shed as it’s called at one time providing residence before the land was donated to the state. Preferring not to hike “out and backs” a fire road provided a return option with spectacular coastal views to complete the moderate 8 mile hike. At the car lunch was packed and a Ranger Trail to Partington Coverecommended trail opposite the Tan Bark Trail seemed to be an ideal place to follow, relax and eat. This sub-cove of Partington Cove was the hidden gem of the trip. The size of the small cove, the boulder crashing waves, and a mountain stream flowing into the ocean water made this a special place and perfect spot for lunch. The ocean was too powerful for a swim but the mountain stream would be more ideal. Sitting in a small pool of cool fresh water was as if being in a private “cool” tub looking into the Pacific. Dried, dressed and more than content I Tunnel Connecting Coveswalked a path through a tunnel where another cove provided docking for small ships which loaded tan bark decades ago. The dock is now gone but remnants of the pylons remain. Carrying on beyond the viewing area, scrambling rocks I was able to get a different view of the cove. Not many would venture this far and the solitude of the late afternoon sun and the sound of waves were peaceful.

@ Pfeiffer BeachWith the sun still suspended above the horizon there was a final stop to make at Pfeiffer Beach, one of the windiest beaches in the area due to it’s location on the coast. Approaching the beach the noise of the wind grew and the force of the 40 to 50 mph winds were eventually felt. The windblown sand on my skin felt like being in a snow storm on Mt Washington, home of the world’s worst weather. I could have used goggles the way the sand was hitting my face and eyes but at least the cold sub-zero temperatures weren’t present. A Little ScrambleIncredibly, for some reason, this was the first time in a year and a half I felt none of the back and leg discomforts nagging me daily. Feeling pain free and running the 1/3 mile beach a few times thoughts of Forrest Gump came to mind. “Run Forrest Run!” I enjoyed the wind like Lieutenant Dan did the storm in the crow’s nest of the Bubba Gump shrimp boat. Running into the wind took Spartan movements while running with the wind I felt almost as fast as Usain Bolt. (There’s a short video below the picture gallery to give an idea of the wind.)

L.A. Photographer MarciaMarcia, a photographer from L.A. was fighting the wind for pictures of the formations just off the beach. After helping each other we ended up with good shots then found a calm area for her to tend to a sandy camera while I watched the force of Mother Nature’s small rogue waves and sand swirling winds. Pfeiffer Beach and Marcia’s company was appreciated until sunset taking in every last minute of the most beautiful rugged beach I’ve encountered. My soul was rejuvenated that day. One of the best in years. I wished Marcia safe return travels for her 5 to 6 hour drive back to L.A. and returned to camp.

The following morning the hesitant return journey to San Francisco began. Stopping in Carmel, home of Clint Eastwood, a good cup of coffee was needed. Mr. Eastwood wasn’t at the local café but this high end town had visitors from around the globe from the languages and accents heard in conversations.

The final stop was Los Gatos meeting a past colleague, Stacey, who introduced me to the posh town and a few good restaurants. The last supper was traditional Italian before following the concrete path to San Fran airport returning the small rental with 2,000 miles added to the odometer.

The almost two week journey was a whirlwind in a good way. A learning experience taking its time settling in….

This post is dedicated to my friend and “brother” of twenty years Bob Steffen. Bob’s recommendation of Big Sur brought the experiences, pictures, and peaceful/soulful times to enjoy and share. Wopila Bob!

Peace – Greg

“We are tied to the ocean. And when we go back to the sea, whether it is to sail or to watch – we are going back from whence we came.” – John F. Kennedy

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