10,000 Miles – Gallatin National Forest & Bozeman, Montana

Leaving Yellowstone was bittersweet since there was much more to see only being there a short four days. Plenty of area was covered and I had entertaining experiences seeing wildlife and intriguing natural resources. The wolves, both wild and captive, were the highlight of this stop on my journey since they’re my spirit animal. I plan to continue learning the diverse traits these advanced animals have. Impressive also, was the animal of abundance to the Native Americans, the bison with their raw strength and casual demeanor.

I had excitement going to Bozeman, a city I’ve heard much about and wanted to spend enough time there to see if this would be a place I would consider living. As I hoped for, a café was just outside of the park in Gardiner, MT. The aroma in High Country Trading and Espresso spiked my craving for a large dark brew. With java in hand and after taking a quick stroll through this tiny western town that gets buried with snow in the winter I hopped in the truck for a short scenic drive to Bozeman. Highway speed felt strange after the relaxing pace in Grand Teton and Yellowstone national parks.

The first stop in Bozeman was to the visitor’s center to find a local campground. I chose Bear Canyon Campground on the outskirts of town keeping close to see what the city had to offer. This stop was different than the others staying in a busy environment and reconnecting with the general population. The family style campground offered more than found at the national parks and included laundry and showers, a bonus since most showers have been from a gallon container with cool water. The hot showers were excellent and it was time to wash well worn clothes!

Bozeman has the western feel you think it would. The wide Main Street had a variety of shops, cafés, museums and restaurants. I toured the small city and found the area to have a pleasant atmosphere. After a few days hearing the light roar of Route 90 from the campground it was time to visit at least one of the six different mountain ranges that surround the area. I found a local climbing shop to query experienced locals to find a rigorous hike. The decision was made to hike Sacagawea Peak(9665 ft), the highest point in the Bridger Range, a sub-range of the Rocky Mountains and visible from Bozeman.

I took an investigative drive to the Gallatin National Forest and Fairy Lake campground. The drive was hilly before the long dirt road to the campground located at the base of Sacagawea Peak. I saw both  wildlife and “domesticlife”, a curious cow, on the slow drive in and captured a section of the Bridger range which is on the Peaceful Pathfinder homepage. The crystal blue water of Fairy Lake and the bare mountain range looked and felt perfect for the next few days. The campground was empty being a weekday now that families were home with school underway. This was the spot I’d return to the following day. The next afternoon I broke camp at Bear Canyon and made the one hour trek back to the secluded campground. When camp was set I gathered enough firewood for a few nights of entertainment and meditative medicine from a warm fire.

Waking to a cool crisp morning with an orange sky I prepared oatmeal and coffee before donning the backpack for the short steep two plus miles to the peak. The moderate to strenuous hike matched the rating of the guide shop and I decided to continue along the ridge encountering a few risky areas that weren’t difficult to maneuver. No mountain goats could be seen roaming the ridge, but a large black and red hairy tarantula was almost under foot. Turning back after encountering a section of the ridge that was too risky to scramble I stopped at the summit to take in the views and serenity where the absence of sound was peaceful. The quick, steep return to camp left plenty of time to hike around Fairy Lake before sunset. Arriving back at camp a fire was lit and enjoyed for a few hours before ending a rejuvenating day.

The next afternoon I checked back in at Bear Canyon Campground meeting fellow adventures and climbers Larry and his wife Molly. We exchanged travel stories and the generous couple offered a place to stay if I was in the area of Glacier National Park. Glacier N.P. was the favorite park of my most preferred college professor Richard Picard who I learned passed from a very coincidental encounter with his widow Anne at an Appalachian Mountain Club function in the White Mountains of New Hampshire. I had the opportunity to tell Anne a few great stories how Richard prepared us for the real world awaiting us after graduation. I wish I had the chance to join him in the mountains. Aho Mr. Picard!

Saturday of the last weekend in Bozeman I hiked another beautiful area of Gallatin N.F. south of the city, then on the overcast Sunday made a three hour drive northwest to Missoula. The small city was quiet and most stores were closed except for a cavernous café with a beer and wine selection from around the world. I knew which beer was calling after meeting Belgian friend Oliver in Grand Teton National Park. Westmalle! I purchased the beer along with the proper accompanying beer glass.(Different shapes of Belgian beer glasses complement varied styles of beer enhancing aromas and showcasing appearance.) Four months in Belgium taught me plenty about the best beers in the world. The Belgian treat was saved for dinner the last night in Montana NOT to include Ramen noodles and tuna! This time jambalaya and extra sharp cheddar cheese were cuisine of the night. The taste bud trio more than satisfied my pallet and eating outdoors with a beautiful sunset added that special touch to the meal.

Preparing to leave Bozeman a disappointing realization set in that travel would be eastward from here back to New England. There was still more to see and the next stops to Devils Tower and Badlands National Park were places of intrigue since the formation and landscapes were to be different than anything I’ve experienced. Locating the campsite at Badlands at night eerily sits in my bones today.

Stay tuned for Badlands and powerful Native American lands…

- Greg

“Avoiding danger is no safer in the long run than outright exposure. Life is either a daring adventure or nothing.”  – Helen Keller

Evening in Bozeman

Cajun-Belgian Gormet Dinner

Curious Cow…Wildlife or domesticlife?

Morning Wake Up

Early Morning Silliness

Ridge South of Sacagawea Peak

South of Bozeman

Interesting geological makeup

Sunset in Bozeman

Tuckerman Ravine of the West?

Grazing Away

Peaceful Bridger Range

Northeast View

Hanging out on Sacajawea Ridge

Fairy Lake and Bridger Range

Clouds and Glare

No Name Trail or who didn’t make it…

10,000 Miles – Yellowstone National Park & Wolves

Already there…

The drive to Yellowstone National Park from Lizard Creek campground was over before I knew it and the unknown little critter in back of the truck didn’t have time to catch any sleep or eat more Reese’s. (See Grand Teton post.) Yellowstone is the first national park in the world created in 1872. Putting land aside to preserve national treasures is important, but I’m torn with the loss of land the Native American tribes of the Shoshone, Bannock, Nez Perce, Flathead, Crow, Blackfoot, and Cheyenne called home. As protocol I went to the visitor’s center, collected maps and spoke with rangers to make the best use of my time in the park. You could stay for weeks or months since the 3,500 square mile park has countless different areas to explore with varying landscapes and attractions including wildlife, geysers, hot springs, the Grand Canyon of Yellowstone, Yellowstone Lake and plenty more. Next time I’m bringing my fishing gear!

Choosing Madison campground in the northwest location of the park placed me in areas of personal interest. After setting camp I actually made my way out of the park to visit the Grizzly & Wolf Discovery Center in West Yellowstone, Montana since I have a passion for wolves. The wolf is an animal that keeps coming into my life without physically being present since it’s no longer a native species in New England. They’ve come as different types of gifts without asking or telling of my interest. Seeing them for the first time in the center touched my soul with their great presence. The only wolf I’ve been in contact with was a Mexican Gray Wolf-hybrid, Saxon, from the SOLO Wilderness Medicine School who moved with a purpose and unfortunately passed a few years ago. There are two wolf  packs at the center that could not survive in the wild after being bred in captivity. Not being many visitors I had uninterrupted time to observe them resting, playing and feeding. Watching the hierarchy is an incredible site and I recommend the documentary Wolves filmed in Yellowstone to understand their family and community structure. They are the most amazing animal I’ve watched because the way the pack “works”. I did spend time watching the grizzlies as I find bears entertaining and they sure were at feeding time. Feeling very content by closing time of the center I returned to the park to end a great day.

I covered many miles the following day waking early driving to geysers and hot springs and of course seeing Old Faithful. The morning mood was eerie with a foggy sunrise from steam rising from hot springs with the morning sun giving the steam an orange glow. The ground in these areas was warm to hot with times of a light sulfur smell and my surprise was the clarity of the spring water. I waited patiently to see Old Faithful erupt which she does every 91 minutes, but after doing this millions of times I think she was a little tired for the morning effort. After a walk around the area to see the many springs and geysers I went to the Grand Canyon of Yellowstone. The yellowish, whitish cliffs were different than I’ve seen at the White Cliffs of Dover in England. Yellowstone River carved its way through the canyon and the geothermal activity caused the colorful tint. Beautiful as it was I thought one day I’ll make it the real Grand Canyon! After lunch (some of you knowing my staple of Ramen noodles and tuna) I drove to the northeastern entrance of the park seeing a combination of plains and mountains, passing pronghorn and bison as I reached the exit. Viewing open areas with a few hundred bison provided images of what the landscape looked like when over 50 million roamed the prairies. Noticing a crowd on a hillside when returning to camp I pulled over to see what the commotion was. People with spotting scopes were viewing wolves and I met Rick McIntyre, a wildlife-biology Ph.D. who heads the Yellowstone Wolf Project and a contributor to the first book on wolves I’ve read, The Company of Wolves. We had a short conversation and with daylight waning he invited me to return the next morning when wolves would be more active. I gladly accepted.

Heading to the spotting site predawn I wasn’t expecting traffic caused by roaming bison. At a hefty 2,000 lbs. and unpredictable bison can use their head as a battering ram making for an interesting story to tell your insurance agent. By no choice I “let” them roam and slowly drove by. A half dozen early risers from within and outside the park go to this location to spot the Junction Butte wolf pack. The newly met friends offered their scopes and seeing a black wolf, a color variant of the gray wolf, for the first time was a special sight. Pictures through the scope were the best that could be done at the ½ mile distance with my camera and decided to post one for your viewing. Just as special was seeing a grizzly enter the field the wolf pack was in. The two species went about their business like passing acquaintances which was an exciting moment to witness what could transpire. I stayed until noon returning to break camp chatting with the campground hosts who made suggestions for places to visit while traveling to Montana and South Dakota. Their recommendations were The Black Hills, Devils Tower and Badlands, two of which I visited during near future travels (and writing about in upcoming posts). For now I was making my out of the park into Gardiner, Montana to have a fresh cup of coffee for the journey to Bozeman, Montana, a place I’ve heard much about.

Up next, Montana mountains and a Belgian treat….

- Greg

“For the strength of the Pack is the Wolf, and the strength of the Wolf is the Pack.” – Rudyard Kipling

Native American thoughts and words on the wolf:

Learning wisdom, Instinct Linked with Intelligence, Social and Family Values, Outwitting, Steadfastness, Skill in Protection of Self and Family, Taking Advantage of Change, Intuition, Guardianship, Ritual, Loyalty, Pathfinder, Psychic Energy, Teacher, Careful Study, Cunning, Ability to Pass by Dangers Invisibly, Spiritual Guidance in Dreams and Meditations, Success, Perseverance, Stability

Please consider the Adopt a Wolf Program from the Grizzly & Wolf Discovery Center.

Early Sunrise

Wolf at the Grizzly & Wolf Discovery Center

Petrified Tree

Courtesy of the Grizzly & Wolf Discovery Center

Plains and Pronghorns

Springs and Geysers Near Old Faithful

Grand Canyon of Yellowstone

Courtesy of the Grizzly & Wolf Discovery Center

Grand Prismatic Spring

Soda Butte

Grand Canyon of Yellowstone

Heart Spring

Bison

Wolf Area

Grand Prismatic Spring

Sunset

10,000 Miles – Journey within the Journey & Grand Teton National Park

Driving to Wyoming I played the first CD of The Way of the Peaceful Warrior (Dan Millman’s international bestseller about the universal quest for happiness) audio book Pam offered before leaving Boulder. The journey, U.S. Tour, wasn’t just about seeing friends and great places it was also a time for looking inward to connect with my soul desires. I had endless time on the roads, trails, and journaling to think about important aspects of life and career direction, companionship, where to live and thrive, and find purpose giving attention to family, friends, and relationships. The deepest times for expression were while journaling looking back on the day and life experiences. My personal journey will continue with the interest of growth walking a desired path Native Americans call the Red Road.

On the road …

To have manageable road time I drove to Rock Springs, Wyoming keeping to daylight hours after being forewarned of pronghorn that like to dash across roads at dusk. Three hundred miles and six hours later this small trucker town just off of Route 80 was roaring with big rigs everywhere. Not interested in the fast food joints and diners I unpacked the camp stove and cooked dinner outside my room at an aged, never updated, “Bates” motel. The tent would have been preferred over this shady looking place but I made the best of it throwing the sleeping bag on the bed getting a few hours of sleep. Checking out early and an hour’s drive down the orange sun lit road I entered the Wrangler Café for breakfast and conversation with locals. The Connecticut plates would draw the comment, “Connecticut?! You’re a long way from home!” These are places of meeting interesting down to earth people and hearing talk of local and national issues. The smell of bacon and seeing biscuits and gravy leave the kitchen made me order the hungry man’s special while drinking too many cups of coffee before sliding into the truck.

A few hours later I was in Jackson Hole stopping for food and the Craig Thomas Visitors Center collecting information for the stay in Grand Teton National Park. Shortly after entering the park and selecting a campsite near the Grand Teton Lodge I hiked around Jenny Lake to Inspiration Point before sunset. In need of good rest before climbing Middle Teton (12, 804 ft.), camp was set and the lantern was out early after dinner. The following morning, rising before the sun, forcing down a few packets of instant oatmeal, cheese and coffee I made way to the Lupine Meadow Trailhead passing more than a dozen grazing elk. I laced up, slung on the backpack and started on the trail just as the sun was breaking over the eastern hills. A short time into the hike I met my first friend. She didn’t say much but was willing to lead the way with a funny walk. After a few minutes I asked if this was the correct trail to Middle Teton. There was no answer, but what did I expect from a two legged feather friend, the Ruffed Grouse. Food was more important than companionship to this bird!

Not far back was the trail junction to Garnet Canyon Trail where I connected with three men from Idaho who welcomed me to their team after a quick introduction. During this non technical climb, we hiked packed dirt, rock, scree and crossed a few snow fields to the base of the final ascent where we visually marked the best line to take. The final ascent was slow due to loose talus and being ready to duck or move to the call out of “rock” when some became ajar, which they did. A helmet would have been a good idea through this area. We scrambled the final boulders and formations to make the summit where a missed step could mean tumbling down 1,000 plus feet. Six hours and 6,000 feet of elevation gain later the summit geodetic survey marker was within reach. Our team stayed at the summit having lunch, drink and taking in the views causing times of vertigo in the calm 65 degree day. The descent was uneventful except for foot glissading down a few snow fields and good conversation. At the trailhead thanks were given for the invitation to join before they returned to their home state and I back to camp. This was a truly incredible and epic day.

Taking the backpack out of the truck I noticed signs of a stowaway since a few mini Reese’s Peanut Butter Cups had been nibbled on. After a quick look and being too tired the critter could stay for the night to finish the treat it started. At camp the stove was lit and I cooked a few packs of Ramen noodles and added a can of tuna which was a staple for the trip, always having a chunk of cheese to enjoy with the meal. I slept deeply and awoke to quiet sounds of a new camp neighbor before French pressing coffee and asking a new Belgian friend Oliver to join. Spending four months in Belgium earlier in my career gave us plenty to talk about since some personal favorite foods, chocolate and beer are from the small quiet country. Friends made in Belgium were friendly and inviting especially in the historic town of Lier where there’s a plethora of restaurants and cafés. I made note of Oliver’s favorite beer, Westmalle Trappist Ale, (remember this for the upcoming Montana post!) and even though it was breakfast we both could have enjoyed one at that moment. We sipped two brews of fresh coffee and told a few travel stories before I broke camp and he headed into the back country.

With the stowaway still enjoying the Reese’s I packed the camping gear and drove north to Lizard Creek Campground on Jackson Lake to reserve a campsite. Two Ocean Lake Trailhead wasn’t far down the road where a leisurely hike was a nice change from scrambling steep talus. The trail wasn’t always next to the water’s edge so I decided to bushwhack through a small wooded area to make it to the lake. Noticing huge moose tracks and bedding areas the thought came to mind it was probably best to stick to the trail and leave their territory. With slight nervousness and caution I stalked back to the trail since outrunning a bull moose or worse a grizzly wasn’t going to happen. I realized how risky the action was after encountering two Park Rangers closing the trail, one with a loaded and drawn shotgun when they asked if there was sign of an elk carcass from a grizzly kill nearby. Thankfully there wasn’t and I was now at a safe area.

Back at Lizard Creek I set up the tent, AGAIN, made Ramen noodles and tuna, AGAIN, then relaxed for the rest of the evening spending much of the time at the shoreline of Jackson Lake listening to the water wash upon the rocks and viewing the north faces of the Tetons. The stowaway stayed comfortable in the truck and I in the tent waking to a new friend the Orb Web Weaver. Company was everywhere and anticipation set in that morning knowing just fifteen minutes further north was the next stop to one of America’s most visited national parks, Yellowstone.

Next…Wolves, bison and hot springs…

-Greg

“Balance is implicit in the Red Road. When you’re on the Red Road, you are in the center. Yet, you do not go to either extreme, and you allow both sides to exist. This is accomplished by continually postponing surrendering to temptation, whatever it may be. It is saying `later’ instead of `no.’”

– Dr. A.C. Ross (Ehanamani), LAKOTA

Grazing Elk – Lupine Meadows

Southeastward View

Westward View with Icefloe Lake

Summit Middle Teton

Final Ascent

Initial Descent

Summit Middle Teton w/Grand Teton Beyond

Snowfield Crossing

The Tetons – GC’s Ansel Adams

The Tetons

The Tetons

Eastward View

Northwestward View

Middle Teton with Black Dike Basaltic Intrusion

The Tetons

Danger! Loose Rock!

Lacey, Tracy & Tom from Idaho

Descending

Tom (Pointing) and Tracey Ma

 

10,000 Miles – Roosevelt National Forest & Rocky Mountain National Park

Returning to Boulder I was seeing the same landscape for the third time passing Great Sand Dunes National Park, Collegiate Peaks and the eclectic looking Coyote Café. I decided to forgo the café and stop at Hog Heaven, a great barbeque restaurant a short distance up the road. Eating there on a previous trip my taste buds were ready for ribs, jalapeno cornbread, beans and bread pudding. The heavy food would last me a long while.

I detoured to Golden, CO, home of the Coors Brewing Company but more importantly (for myself anyway), the home of the Bradford Washburn Mountaineering Museum dedicated to the climbers, technology, culture and spirit of mountaineering. Mountaineering caught my interest ten years ago and has brought challenging climbs ever since. The museum displays exhibits on climate, science, cultures and the humanities as they relate to mountains. Bradford Washburn was an American explorer, mountaineer, photographer, and cartographer who established the Boston Museum of Science. He and his wife, Barbara, the first woman to summit Mt. McKinley (Denali), lead incredible lives  spending much time in Alaska pioneering the use of aerial photography of mountains and glaciers.

After looking at exhibits and early clothing and gear mountaineers used it’s easy to realize today’s mountaineers are spoiled by high tech gear allowing many to go beyond their capability where some will never leave mountaintops such as Mt. Everest. Having good gear is necessary, but experience and common sense keeps you alive!

Roosevelt National Forest was an hour and a half drive, the end following the same mountainous route I rode the bike on making me think how crazy, but accomplishing the ride was. I signed in at the park, selected a camp site and set out to get in a quick evening hike. Taking that time before sunset was a nice way to ground myself after an exhausting day of driving and sightseeing. Finishing the Hog Heaven leftovers I was ready for a good night’s sleep before continuing on to Rocky Mountain National Park.

No time was wasted breaking camp in the morning for the short one hour drive to Estes Park, CO where elk can overrun the town during the rut (breeding season). Being a few weeks early the town was elk free but many were roaming just on the outskirts. I entered the park with a seasonal Interagency Annual Pass then studied a map to see the lay of the land to best make my way through the park the next few days. “Home” was at three different campgrounds, Longs Peak the first few nights, Aspenglen the next, and lastly Timber Creek.

Longs Peak is a tent only campground having platforms at each site. No RVs in this area means no running generators which owners are required to turn off at night. After constructing the tent and purchasing firewood I drove to nearby vistas, taking a hike and returning a few hours later for dinner, a fire and journaling. This was the first campfire of the trip surprisingly enough. Nights were cooler being at a higher elevation (9,500 ft.) than at Roosevelt N.F. making the fire great to get warm before slipping into the sleeping bag.

Deciding to see as much of the park as possible I opted out of back country camping moving campgrounds to appreciate more vistas and see more wildlife. Aspenglen campground was the next stop a few mornings later to reserve a tent site before the possibility of a full campground with late season vacationers. Elk were expanding roaming areas as each day of the mating season came closer bringing a massive majestic bull elk close to the road that was undeterred by a train of vehicles.

Final camp was the barren Timber Creek in the southwest corner of the park having almost no trees due to the mountain pine beetle killing tens of thousands of pines. This area of the park was quiet and I met a few friendly travelers, Leroy and his dad out for father and son bonding, two recent college grads on a bike tour of the Midwest and a wildlife photographer. Rising early on a quiet starry morning I walked along a watershed hoping to see wildlife and was fortunate to see moose, deer and elk.

Meeting good people and seeing wildlife was a perfect way to end the stay in Rocky Mountain National Park. I savored a burger and fries just outside the park before the next destination of Grand Teton National Park.

 - Greg

“In every walk with nature one receives more than he seeks.” – John Muir

Bull Elk

Cyclists Bobby and Eric

Brainard Lake Roosevelt N.F.

Bull Moose

Rocky Mountain N.P. – Greg’s Ansel Adams

B&W Rocky Mountain N.P.

Still Pond Rocky Mountain N.P.

Mid Morning View Rocky Mountain N.P.

Fishing Rocky Mountain N.P.

Kissing Moose

Grazing Bull Elk

Collegiate Peaks

Big Horn Sheep Rocky Mountain N.P.

Rocky Mountain National Park

Ground Hog

Rocky Mountain National Park

10,000 Miles – Boulder, Taos and a Dedication

The tour continues…

For the second time in two years I was in the beautiful little city just east of the Rocky Mountains, Boulder, Colorado. A good friend Pam moved to Boulder from Connecticut more than a few years ago and is responsible for getting me on an upgraded 1989 Trek and introducing me to winter on Mt. Washington. I’ve been hooked since. The nice friend she is she sent me on a crazy bike ride outside of Boulder, details to come.

There are incredible place to hike outside of Boulder and I chose Eldorado Canyon State Park spending a day trip in and around the canyon logging about 12 miles on the trails. It felt great to be back in the wilderness after the long drives and stops from Asheville. During the stay I went further into the back country to Arapaho National Forest then mildly “attacked” two 14,000 footers, Grays(14,278 ft) and Torreys(14,275 ft) Peaks, probably two of the easiest 14,000 footers to hike. I could feel the thinner air at about 13,000 feet needing a few short rests and noticed recovery was quick. The trip to Arapahoe N.F. was a long day trek through semi mountainous areas to a few crystal clear ponds. Making a late start this particular day made for dicey conditions when summiting one peak. Peaks should be summited by 1:00 or you face the changing weather coming in early afternoon. Summiting on a bare mountain peak during thunder and lightning strikes is a harrowing experience.

I rode the Trek once on this journey and it was an epic ride Pam mapped out. Knowing it would be in the hills made me step up for the challenge. Long story short, the 60 mile ride was MOUNTAINOUS (short video end of post)! This is an average ride for the super fit who live in Boulder, a training Mecca for world class athletes because of the elevation, good climate and terrain. A few highlights of the ride were stopping in the small mountain town of Jamestown, population 250 and going in to the Jamestown Mercantile for a great IOU malt. I continued through the town gaining elevation until reaching Brainard Lake of Roosevelt National Forest. Destination success! I cruised a few short roads of the park before heading back to Boulder burning the brakes off of the bike from the steep down hills that could have you going over 60 mph. The following day I returned to the Mercantile (in my truck this time) to square up my IOU, have a beer and listen to a great “Newgrass” band. The welcoming comfort of the rustic local gathering place made for an enjoyable restful evening.

With friends arriving to fill Pam’s home and wanting to return to New Mexico to hike/climb Wheeler Peak (13,167 ft.), the highest point in the state, I made the return 300 mile drive. Seven hours later, passing Collegiate Peaks, I was back in New Mexico finding a great location to set up camp just outside the small quaint town of Arroy Secco next to Carson National Forest. After the long drive I was looking forward to spending the night in my tent and sleeping bag.

The first morning I woke to a double rainbow. There’s no video with me hallucinating or trying to understand the meaning of it. (Some of you will know what I’m speaking about.) Having the small town nearby for good coffee, natural foods and the famous Taos Cow ice cream parlor was a bonus.

Returning to camp one evening after surveying the area was a large van with six men of Mexican decent at the adjoining campsite. I thought this was going to be a long sleepless night because of the number of men and music. I made assumptions I shouldn’t. While pulling a few items from the truck one of the men respectfully told me they were staying to cook dinner and return to a local motel for the night and asked me to join them. I felt empty and didn’t know what to say with a feeling of shame that came over me for making judgments. I couldn’t say no to the offer from this generous man and company would be good. I grabbed something to drink to not go empty handed. Approaching the group I sensed I was not welcomed by all and now I was being judged and was going to eat their food! Did I do the right thing accepting the offer!? A few of the men spoke English and we had a spirited conversation about where home is and what it’s like being on the road for extended time. The mood lightened, but a few men weren’t completely welcoming which I accepted and understood.

Overhanging the fire was a cast iron kettle filled with pork, beef, cut up hot dogs, jalapeños, all combined with a red chili sauce. I followed their lead grabbing a tortilla and filling it with the spicy meat mixture. I have to say it was pretty tasteful and satisfying. We ate and traded stories for a while before they broke camp. When leaving the man, who I took as the group leader, offered the rest of the food otherwise it was going to waste since they had no way to store it. The kindness was humbling and not having to cook dinner the next night was fine by me.

Onto Wheeler Peak…

Not being a skier I didn’t know the Taos ski area is a great place and is highly recommended from reviews I’ve read. The resort was closed, but the parking area was open for hikers who want to roam the trails or summit Wheeler Peak.

A few miles on the trail I approached a few people from the New Mexico Mountaineers making the climb to the summit. They were a fit spunky group of retirees with an average age of late sixties who travel and hike mid west and western mountains. After a lively conversation and a few pictures I continued on to the summit passing big horn sheep and little furry creatures. The summit had a great view and I carried along a ridge to the boarder of the 17,361 acre Taos Pueblo Native American property. This sacred land with a view of the sacred Blue Lake was not to be trespassed or photographed(the lake). On the decent I was able to view more big horn sheep and returned to a truck covered with snow from the changing mountain weather. The rest of the Mexican mixed meat dinner tasted great. Probably anything would have at that point.

The following day I visited the Taos Pueblo Indian Reservation. Very few acres are available for non-natives to see and explore which was disappointing but understandable since they should have more land than they were given. (after it was taken away, but I digress). I toured the reservation where some Indians live and have shops as part of their homes. A few highlights were a Native man drumming and singing, miscellaneous jewelry and craft shops and fry bread for lunch. Rest was a good part of this day and visits to shops and long talks with owners made for interesting conversation on how some visitors have expectations of a movie style Indian life.

Returning to camp early evening I prepared dinner and spent time journaling before a good nights sleep. Travel the next day would be passing through Boulder, back to Roosevelt National Forest then onto Rocky Mountain National Park. The trek back to New Mexico was well worth it.

- Greg

“No individual or group can block another individual’s path or change it against what fits his nature and his purpose.”   

- Rolling Thunder, Cherokee

Ronald Bradley Mack

This post is dedicated to my friend Ronald “Ron” Bradley Mack who passed recently. A favorite place of Ron’s was Boulder, CO where he studied at the Rocky Mountain Healing Arts Institute. Ron was a healer using The Bradley Technique energy work he developed and evolved over the 30 years of his practice. He performed his healing work in his home, the historic Melville House Bed & Breakfast in New Bedford, MA, where he was the proprietor.

Ron was a friend and mentor who put me on the path of the journey I walk today. Peace to you Ron.

Ron enjoying his front garden

Big Horn Sheep

New Mexico Mountaineers

Summit Wheeler Peak

Reservation with View

Another Fury Friend, The Pika

Summit Torreys Peak

A Feathered Following Friend

Church

Looking back on Arapahoe Pass Trail

Indian Talk Shop

Little Chipmunk Friend

Pueblo Drummer and Singer

Summit Grays Peak

Friendly Garter Snake

Ridge of Grays and Torreys Peaks

Indian Reservation Boundary

Arapahoe Glacier Trail

10,000 Miles – The Beginning of a U.S. Tour

Driving across the United States was a desire since high school. The thought of being on the open road, driving through different states, seeing new places and meeting new people seemed exciting. I’ve spent more time than one should behind the wheel for previous employers and driving throughout New England to destinations for hiking, fishing and camping trips so making the effort didn’t faze me as long as I had good music or company.

On July 22, 2009 I embarked on my longest and most distant road trip, a 10,000 mile tour lasting almost two months traveling from CT to North Carolina, Texas, and Montana then returning east. Spending two months traveling throughout Utah, Oregon and parts of Washington State a year earlier kept the trip from going as far as the west coast.

The loosely thought out plan was to visit friends in Asheville, NC, Houston, TX and Boulder, CO, see areas I was interested moving to and visit national parks and forests. Instead of one hundred of AAA maps I used an application on my 17” laptop making the world’s biggest GPS (Which sat on the passenger’s seat.). I wanted to make this journey as free form as possible having the only schedule be the segment to Asheville. My career has been full of strict planning and promptness with executive teams and customers making this a relief to do what I wanted and when. The trip was like Forrest Gump on his run back and forth across the country. When I wanted to see something, I saw it. When I needed to eat, I ate. When I needed to sleep, I slept and when I needed to…., you know, I went!

To start off the road trip Mitzy the Montero was packed with a bike, camping and hiking gear, clothes and a small amount of food and water. With 176,000 miles, no air conditioning and a recent tune up I knew she would be fine although the thought of no air conditioning wasn’t pleasant.

The tour started in Connecticut with a short stop in Massachusetts to pick up a climbing and hiking friend. Chris made the trek to Asheville then flew back. From Asheville onward I’d be going soul”o”. My soul needed a break from my home area and was touched, tested, and poked more than a few times on this journey. (See the Emerson quote in the Peaceful Introduction.)

Making almost 90 noteworthy stops there are too many experiences to tell in this post and will follow with more. For now, I bring you the beginning of the trip, will introduce you to a few friends and tell you of places visited.

Hop in and enjoy the 10,000 mile ride….

There’s a sense of freedom and increased adrenaline I experience being on the road knowing new places for adventure are in the near future. The early part of the trip was familiar territory from driving south more than a few times. We rested for the night in Winchester, NC before navigating the winding Skyline Drive of Shenandoah National Park the following day. Stops were made for a few short hikes to scenic overviews, entertainment for the afternoon being a few snakes, deer and watching people with cameras chase bears with cubs. Not wanting to use my wilderness medicine training Chris and I shook our heads and guided our way through the park. As much as we wanted to experience the Blue Ridge Parkway, which follows Skyline Drive, too many additional hours would have been added to meet our friend Tricia waiting for us in Asheville.

Tricia, who moved to Asheville more than a few years ago to open a yoga studio, greeted us with good cold beer and welcomed us into her home where we chatted for the rest of the evening. The next day she gave us a tour of one of the coolest, eclectic small cities I’ve been to on the east coast. Asheville offers a welcoming atmosphere, great food, wine and microbrew beer with community activities taking place throughout the city on weekends. There are many similarities to Portland, Oregon. In a short ride you could be in Great Smokey Mountain National Park or Pisgah, Nantahala or Cherokee National Forests. In an hour’s drive Mt. Mitchell (6684 ft.), the highest point east of the Mississippi River, is an easy to moderate hike. The only likeness to New England’s highest point, Mt. Washington (6288 ft.), is an access road to the summit. Mt. Mitchell can’t boast of the world’s worst weather or the difficult terrain of Mt. Washington, although it provides excellent views of Pisgah National Forest. A trail I embarked on before leaving the area had signs of bear and the quietness of only a few late season campers.

After visiting Tricia, hiking and seeing the quaint, spunky city of Asheville Chris flew back to Massachusetts and I began a long, scorching drive southwest to Houston needing to stop in Lafayette, LA before falling asleep behind the wheel. The heat while driving was hardly bearable rising over 100 degrees causing the power supply for my laptop to melt.

A business colleague and friend I hadn’t seen in 10 years was the reason for the Houston stop. Leo is a proud decorated Silver Star Purple Heart Vietnam Veteran fighting effects from Agent Orange exposure. He’s one of the most interesting and funny men you’ll ever meet. Leo “Gets” from Lethal Weapon is almost as entertaining.  If you have an interest in Vietnam War history, Leo fought in one of the most brutal engagements documented in The Lost Battalion of TET: Breakout of the 2/12 Cavalry at Hue. Time was well spent catching up, keeping company and visiting a few of his favorite restaurants. For “protection” he gave me a set of mounted steer horns you would see on a Cadillac at a big Texas ranch.

Leaving Houston was the most sweltering drive yet. Outside temperature was 106 at times and probably hotter in the truck.  Mathew Broderick’s line in Biloxi Blues kept coming to mind “This is Africa hot!” when he disembarked the train in Mississippi. The hot wind blowing in the truck didn’t help and being stopped by a road worker made for a big white sauna on four wheels. Kudos to the workers doing road repairs in the sun and heat.

My plan was to camp after leaving Houston except a stop was needed before leaving Texas given the heat was physically draining and setting up a tent didn’t seem to be the best idea. Coming to the rescue was my brother Jamie, a traveler for work who has a million travel miles. I placed an SOS call and he made a reservation in Amarillo, TX offering his miles for the stay. Jamie, a savior for the evening, and I would meet later during the trip in Chicago.

Psychologically it felt good heading north early the next morning after a refreshing stay and saying goodbye to the desert heat of Texas. In short time I was in New Mexico where mountains and appealing landscapes were coming into view. Boulder, CO was the next stop and while driving through New Mexico the thought of staying a few nights came to mind but I had Boulder in the sights. As fate would have it I would return to New Mexico a week and a half later because of a full house at my kind friend Pam’s place. Thoughts of climbing the highest peak in New Mexico and visiting the Taos Pueblo Indian Reservation also intrigued me, so back on the road I went driving 300 miles south where I recently driven….

Stay tuned for the next stops…..Taos and Colorado for hiking, camping and more.

- Greg

“Once you make a decision, the universe conspires to make it happen.” – R.W. Emerson

1st hike on Skyline Drive

Bear Warning

Deer

Copperhead

Common Water Snake

Trail to Mt. Mitchell Summit

Orange Newt

India – Travel, Mountain Retreat & Senses

The Ramana’s Garden/Rishikesh, India post generated enough interest justifying another to share more stories and experiences from this multifaceted excursion. I invite you to sit back, read and enjoy!

Another view of northern India….

The flu found its way into my system before leaving for India. This wasn’t how I wanted to travel to a country I knew little of and unknown conditions caused nervousness how my body was going to fight the virus. Homeopathic remedies are my preference rather than over the counter medication although an exception was made to buy more than one could possibly need. Enough were ingested before boarding the plane in Chicago to sleep most of the flight.

Leaving Delhi airport provided our Ambassadors for Children group with sights of pandemonium. Rickshaws, taxi’s, trucks, cows, weaved, or walked through the streets as our tired group sat in the speeding  shuttle heading towards our first night stay in a partially collapsed YMCA. The most dangerous family transportation was scooters. There could be families of three or four on a scooter!

The weathered train our group boarded the following morning was much nicer than the standing only train the poor would take on their travels. Our train had the luxury of a bathroom, although to my surprise the toilet was open to the tracks rushing by. The clacking ride to Haridwar provided views of the poverty including dung homes and dung being used for fires. Sustainability at work, but this is what the people had to do. Many of the riverbeds were dry or nearly dry. Visual senses became stressed as my eyes had difficulty taking every second in.

In Haridwar porters transferred our bags to 4WD vehicles for transportation to Rishikesh. Statues of more than thirty Hindu gods and goddesses were coming into sight, the first being Lord Shiva standing tall near the Ganges river. After two hours of bumpy roads and drivers dodging scattering monkeys we arrived at the ashram where the International Yoga Festival was part of this voluntourism trip. Two months prior I had rotator cuff surgery making early morning yoga classes excellent physical therapy before leaving for Ramana’s Garden. There were different types of yoga to become familiar with but focus was the orphanage and children.

The day after the Computer and Library project was completed a friend and I hired a driver and traveled north to Tehri, the location of the Himalayan Mountain Retreat to see another area of India and escape from the business of Rishikesh. (Driving is something you do not want to do in India.) I wanted to hike and get closer to the Himalayan Mountains which have been of interest since mountaineering became a passion. We made a stop in a small busy town before the retreat to purchase food and personal items. Many locals were interested in conversation and I was asked numerous times to visit their home because they are proud people and wanted to introduce foreigners their family. The market sold just about everything including brand name jeans where they’re shipped to when they can’t be sold in U.S. retail stores. More than enough fruits, vegetables, grains, chai tea and mango chutney were purchased for the time at the retreat.

The Mountain Retreat wasn’t what you would think of as a retreat. There’s no electricity and if you wanted hot water it had to be heated by fire. The location was secluded and best of all it was peaceful and quiet, something rarely experienced since arriving in India. The retreat was managed by two caretakers who were most helpful, kind and humble. Meals of the fresh produce and fresh chapatti bread were prepared and chai tea was made during the day. One caretaker was working to support his wife and two children living in Nepal hundreds of miles away. He spoke very little English but we were able to communicate using basic communication skills, simple words, signing, and acting out. (Remember Dances with Wolves?!) The interest this man had was genuine, intriguing and refreshing.  In the evening fires were made in the dining area and bedrooms. Nights were colder being further north and at higher elevation so the warm, crackling fire was a nice way to heat the room and provide meditative sights and sounds.

Three of us hiked along a dirt road the first morning making our way around a corner until the Himalayas came into sight. I stood silent with amazement. What I thought were a layer of clouds were mountain tops in the distance. A rush came over me and was in awe taking in the view wanting to be even closer, but that would have to be for another excursion. We made hikes to a local village for a chai tea and to our own personal places for journaling and mediation. On one hike an Indian leopard caught my eye and I’m not sure who startled who. Birds of all kinds and colors were flying and singing on the forest edge. Returning from a hike a goat had just given birth to two kids. I watched with amazement as the mother cleaned then fed her newborns with the help of the gentle goat herder.

Leaving the retreat was almost as difficult as leaving the orphanage. In such a short time a bond was made with these two humble, giving men who made the stay comfortable and provided company. As a gift of thanks the extra food was left along with extra clothes. The departing trip to Rishikesh was long, knowing this was the beginning of the return trip back to the United States. Keeping travel interesting  was a sheep (traffic) jam. You never know what you’re going to encounter traveling in India so being in a hurry isn’t a good state of mind.

After a pass through night in Rishikesh and a quick hello to the children it was time to return to Delhi. For a change from the YMCA which had a bed in a small concrete room a night’s stay was reserved at a “proper” hotel. The shower, room, food were a pleasing change, but after enjoying everything that evening something didn’t feel right while thinking about the poverty and the poor that were just up the road, some behind walls that were built to make them invisible. The following day was a visit to a shopping district to walk the streets and eat at a recommended safe restaurant. The sari shops had beautiful colorful fabric and if clothing was needed it could be bought in this area. My sight, sound, taste, and smelling senses were on overload before the afternoon was over sending me back to the hotel to rest for a long day of travel.

My eyes experienced some of the best they’ve seen and the “not so best”. I was physically, mentally and emotionally exhausted. The children, Ramana’s Garden, views of the Himalayan Mountains were spectacular. People from the Ambassadors for Children group, Ramana’s, and the caretakers greatly added to the enjoyment. I was looking forward to returning home knowing the experience would last a lifetime, wanting to return one day to visit the children and travel to Nepal.

- Greg

“Yesterday is already a dream and tomorrow is only a vision, but today well lived makes every yesterday a dream of happiness and every tomorrow a vision of hope.”  – From the Sanskrit

Fun in the Kitchen

Sunrise Northern India

Anu the Teacher

Watching over the Humans

Himalayan Mountain Range

Cherry Trees at the Mountain Retreat

Watching Over the Humans

Shy Girl

Ashram on the Ganges

Gentle Goat Herder

Porters in Haridwar Train Station

Please?!

Mr. Greg Taking in the View

Posing for Food

Pizza!

Ramana’s Garden Computer & Library Project Rishikesh, India

There are many stories I could tell about the 2008 journey to India and the incredible experiences that occurred just about every day. The trip at times was physically and mentally tiring, a life altering event that touched my soul causing me to look closer at my core values, unveiling a new path to be aware of. Travel from Delhi to Rishikesh, the children, the orphanage, and the Himalayan Mountain Retreat  where I first saw the Himalayan Mountains are each their own story. This post provides the significant highlights of the trip; the children, the orphanage and the project.

The journey begins…

After being unemployed from a struggling start-up company I was made aware of a humanitarian effort in India to help the “untouchables” at Ramana’s Garden* orphanage. Untouchables are low on the caste system and according to some should not have food, water or shelter. Ramana’s Garden is located in the foothills of the Himalayan Mountains in Rishikesh, India. It was time to give back and feel good about a work/volunteer effort. Immediately, I began to make the necessary arrangements with the U.S. organization heading the effort, Ambassadors for Children. Within a few weeks friends and family donated $2,500 toward the effort making a total of $11,000 raised for the Computer & Library Project.

The eleven hour flight to Delhi was long and uneventful. While I was collecting my bag from the carousel in Delhi airport a man approached and asked if I knew Ted Chokas. In a tired surprised response I told him Ted was my father. Brewster, who was part of the group, is good friends with my father’s best friend. Was this a welcome, you’re supposed to be here sign? Such a coincidence. Twenty of us collected our bags, loaded into a van and made our way to a YMCA for the night. Little sleep was had that night before a long trek to Rishikesh by bus, train and SUVs. My weary morning eyes were now opened to the poverty, poor living conditions and the quality of life many have.  It can’t be explained, only witnessed.

I checked into the Parmarth Niketan Ashram then ventured to the sacred Ganges River watching people, spiritual ceremonies and wandering playful monkeys. I was truly in another world. The following morning our group started the walk to Ramana’s each carrying the 50 lbs. of books to be added to the library. The morning was quiet as the town awakened. People were bathing in the Ganges and vendors were opening their shops while the sacred cows roamed the streets. Most of us were silent as we walked through the poor conditions we’ve never experienced before.  A highlight of the walk was crossing the Lakshman Jhula suspension bridge just before arriving at Ramana’s Garden.

The orphanage houses 60 children and provides education to 160 from four to sixteen years of age. We met the founder of the orphanage Dr. Prabhavati Dwabha, a woman of strong stature, who told us the story how the orphanage was meant for her to build, an amazing story in itself. The café at the school opened for lunch serving the freshest and safest food in Rishikesh. When finished we were given a tour of the impeccable school grounds and finally met the children we heard so much about.

The children were happy, healthy, and well mannered and spoke English very well. They wore uniforms and many boys wore hats. The temperature was a warm 85 degrees and I asked why they were wearing hats. They simply answered, “Because we like to!” Fair answer, as I had to laugh. During the three weeks at Ramana’s I never witnessed bullying or rough play. Each morning the children begin the school day with prayers and songs before heading into classrooms. While waiting for the computer equipment, desks and chairs to arrive I would go into different classrooms and teach the subject on the schedule. Learning is by memorization and there’s little experiential learning, possibly from being without family. I taught a few outdoor recreation and math classes, having fun with the kids, and playing in the schoolyard.

I was called Mr. Greg and was asked to help when the computers and peripherals needed to be locked away for the night until classroom security was completed. Even if the children carried an empty box they were proud to be involved. Late in the day an angel named Pinky kept me company while I was working. Pinky has eye injury from her infant years which didn’t keep her from reading, writing, or drawing. Each night she kept me company until it was time for dinner. If I could have brought her back to the US I would have. The choices where to eat dinner were in the café with people from around the world, or with the kids. Of course, the choice was simple; I chose to spend time to eat with the kids. Each evening we laughed and talked and they asked many questions, so many I hardly had a chance to eat. At the end of the meal each would clean their own dishes and prepare for evening prayer and song.

The effort took two weeks with help from the local electrician, computer technicians, and maintenance operations person. The morning after the classroom was finished I was in the courtyard surrounded by 160 children. I told them how much I enjoyed their company, how special they are and to use the computers to enrich their education and become who they dream of being. The words were hard to say during this special life moment. As one of the children was tugging on my hand I was asked, “Mr. Greg, why do you cry?” Hmmm…I wonder why?

- Greg

“The way to be strong is to help the weak. The way to have wealth is to give things away. The way to lead is to serve.” – Kent Nerburn

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Final words…

The Computer & Library Project was a huge success. One thousand pounds of books were added to the library and with funds allocated by Ambassadors for Children and private donations the number of computers, peripherals and teacher salaries exceeded expectations. Ramana’s Garden has the largest computer classroom outside of colleges in Northern India.  Funding and donations covered the costs for:

• 9 – Laptops each with a wireless mouse and keyboard
• 9 – Desks and chairs
• 1 – Locking security cabinet
• 1 – Printer/Scanner
• 1 – 22″ flat screen monitor for the teacher
• Wireless network
• Internet access for one year
• Years’ salary for a computer teacher and librarian
• New electrical connections
• Increased classroom security

Non profit charity for Ramana’s Garden: http://www.friendsramanasgarden.org/home/

Girlfriends

Buds

Another Great Child

Fun and Silliness!

Brother and Sister

Teachers of Ramana’s Garden

Evening Prayer and Song

Studious Pinky

Morning Prayer

Joy!

Entertainment!

Thank You Mr. Greg!

Nepalese Caregiver

Best Buds

* Video shows areas from the ashram to Ramana’s Garden.